Footwear: a glossary of terms

This Glossary attempts to define the more commonly used terminology. A

compiled by Cameron Kippen

ACHILLES TENDON PAD:
A lining inside the heel area of the upper designed to cushion and protect the Achilles tendon.

ADDITION METHOD:
A method of fitting up the custom made last, if the foot is broader, the instep or big toe higher, or the heel thicker than average. The shoe maker corrects the last by attaching various pieces of leather to it. Though shoes can be made from the modified last, quality shoemakers produce a new copy based on the modified original.

ADJUSTABLE WIDTH LACING:
A system of webbing loops or rings to secure the lacing of the upper, used in place of eyelets. Can also be called "speed" lacing.

AGLET:
The plastic tip at the end of a shoelace.

ALBERT:
A man's slipper with a straight top line to the quarters and the vamp extended upwards to form a tongue resting on the instep.

ALUM-TANNING:
The method of treating insole materials which sterilises the inner portion of the shoe.

APRON FRONT:
A shoe front describing a shield shaped apron on top, either underlaying or overlaying the remainder of the vamp. The style derives from a moccasin where it sometimes forms the top part of the upper after the pleats have been removed.

ATH-LEISURE WARE:
The Ath-leisure wear movement or athletic shoes was spearheaded by the seventies and eighties craze for keep fit. By the 1970's informality became interwined with the cult of health which had a marked effect on footwear. Ath-Leisure Ware market is primarily targeted at young markets.

ASSYRIAN BOOT:
The Assyrian boot was broad and rounded, the front was cut away with a loose leather flap covering the instep and leg. The lacing was loose so the foot was not constricted. Pointed boots were not introduced until the time of the Hittites (2000-1200 BC)

AWL:
An implement used to make holes in the welt for stitches, and a short awl makes holes for the wooden pegs in the rand.

AWL HOLES:
Square holes made with an awl for the wooden pegs used to attach the rand. The holes are eventually sealed with adhesive.